It’s the season for little things.  Little things hidden in the branches, to remind you what it felt like to be a child at this time of year.  Little things in boxes with bows to remind you that it’s not so bad to grow up.  And this year, little things hidden away in layers of dark chocolate mousse to make you wish you had been born in France. 

Another month has come to a close and that means it’s Daring Bakers time.  

This month’s challenge is brought to us by the adventurous Hilda from Saffron & Blueberry and Marion from Il en Faut Peu Pour Etre Heureux.  They have chosen a French Yule Log by Flore from Florilege Gourmand.  Not just any Yule Log, an entremets, a creamy frozen yule log filled with layers of various textures and flavors.

While all working from the same basic recipes, we were given flavoring options.  After whittling down the recipe to the exact layers I would make, I was able to get the recipe down to 6 pages.  Honestly it sounds so much more complicated than it actually is.  I have reorganized my recipe to follow the order in which I made the elements, rather than the order it was place in the mold.  I made most of the elements the day before assembly.  The finished dessert looks like a great feat of engineering with the layers suspended in frozen chocolate mousse.  In reality, the key was organization. 

entremets - French Yule Log

Here is the order of elements for the frozen yule log, followed by the recipes and assembly instructions.

praline paste (this isn’t an element, but an ingredient for the praline feuillete)

Praline Feuillete (Crisp) Insert

Creme Brulee Insert

Hazelnut Dacquoise Biscuit

Dark Chocolate Mousse

Dark Chocolate Ganache Insert

Dark Chocolate Icing

I used a 9 1/4″ x 5 1/4″ x 2 3/4″ loaf pan as my mold for assembling the log.

praline paste

1 cup hazelnuts toasted and skinless

2/3 cup sugar

line a jellyroll with lightly buttered parchment

Put sugar in 10″ skillet.  Heat on low 10-12 minutes until it melts around the edges.  Do NOT stir, only swirl if necessary to prevent from burning.  Brush sides with water to also prevent from burning.

For me, this took about 20 minutes.  I had to do it twice.  I found it worked a million times better if I heated it on a small burner.  My large burner would burn the edges, without melting the center.

When melted and caramel in color, remove from heat and stir in nuts with wooden spoon.  Return to low heat and stir to coat nuts.  Cook until mixture starts to bubble.  It is very hot.  Carefully pour onto the parchment lined sheet and spread as evenly as possible.  As it cools, it will harden to brittle. 

Break into pieces and place in food processor. 

 Pulse to powder then process to a paste (several minutes).  It will be similar in texture to almond paste.  Store in a cool dry place.  Do NOT refrigerate.

praline feuillete (crisp) insert

3.5 oz. milk chocolate

1 2/3 Tablespoons butter

2 Tablespoons praline paste

30 grams rice krispie cereal (you could also use a homemade lace crepe [gavottes], but I opted out this time)

Melt the chocolate and butter in a double boiler.  Add praline and cereal.  Mix quickly to thoroughly coat with chocolate.  Spread (with rolling pin) between two sheets of wax paper to a size slightly larger than your desired shape.  Refrigerate until hard.  This can be made ahead a couple of days and wrapped in plastic wrap.

vanilla creme brulee insert

1/2 cup heavy cream

1/2 cup whole milk

4 egg yolks

2 Tablespoons sugar

1 vanilla bean

Heat the milk, cream, and scraped vanilla bean to just boiling.  Remove from heat and let steep for 1 hour.  In separate bowl, whisk together the sugar and egg yolks.  Pour the cream mixture into the yolk mixture and mix well.  Pour into mold and bake for 1 hour or until firm on the edges and slightly wobbly in the center.  I tried this with a water bath and it took over two hours.  I would vote no water bath for this.  I would also skip the parchment lining next time.  It wouldn’t stick to the foil so some of the cream ran underneath it.  I used aluminum foil to make a mold slightly smaller than the loaf pan I would be using for the log.  You could also make it any size and cut to fit the mold when assembling. 

Let cool and put in freezer for at least 1 hour to firm up and facilitate the final assembly.  If well wrapped, it can keep in the freezer for a day or two.

hazelnut dacquoise biscuit

I used this for the bottom layer only, but you can use this to line the top of the mold as well. 

3/4 cup + 1 Tablespoon hazelnut meal

1/2 cup confectioner’s sugar

2 Tablespoons flour

3 medium egg whites (3.5 oz.)

4 Tablespoons granular sugar

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.  Mix the hazelnut meal and confectioner’s sugar together.  Sift in flour.  In separate bowl, beat egg whites, gradually adding granular sugar until stiff.  Pour hazelnut meal mixture into the egg whites and blend delicately with a spatula.  Line a jellyroll pan with a piece of buttered parchment.  Spread batter onto paper to an area slightly larger than your desired shape and to a height of 1/3 inches.

Bake for approximately 15 minutes until golden.  Let cool and cut to desired shape.

It’s best to make the dacquoise the same day you will be assembling the log.

dark chocolate mousse

You will see that a Pate a Bombe is mentioned in this recipe.  A Pate a Bombe is a term used for egg yolks beaten with a  sugar syrup, then aerated.  It is the base used for many mousse and buttercream recipes.  It makes mousses and buttercreams more stable, particularly if they are to be frozen, so that they do not melt as quickly or collapse under the weight of heavier items such as the creme brulee insert.

1 + 1/4 teaspoons powdered gelatin

3 Tablespoons granular sugar

1 1/2 teaspoons light corn syrup

1/2 oz. water

3 medium egg yolks (50g)

6.2 oz. coarsely chopped dark chocolate

1 1/2 cups heavy cream

Soften the gelatin in water. 

So hidden away in this recipe, I’m going to let you in on a little secret.  I didn’t know what “soften the gelatin” meant for powdered gelatin.  Once, years ago, I special ordered sheet gelatin that I used for a mirror gilding project, but other than that, I have NO gelatin experience.   Our recipe said “If using powdered gelatin, follow the directions on the package”.  My box had no directions for softening.  I turned to Ask. com.  The first site I looked said there was no reason to explain softening/blooming gelatin to the American housewife because they all make so much jell-o.  Oops, guess I’m a bad housewife.  I finally found out that all you are doing is sprinkling the powder over water.  I also found out  this works best in a shallow dish that allows for more surface area for the gelatin to work with. 

 Make a Pate a Bombe

Beat egg yolks until very light in color (about 5 min.)  In a small saucepan, cook the sugar, corn syrup, and water on medium hear for about 3 minutes (to 244 degrees).  Add the sugar syrup to the beaten yolks carefully by pouring it into the mixture in a thin stream while continuing to beat the yolks.  This is best done with an electric mixer.  Continue beating until cool (about 5 min.).  the batter should become thick and foamy.

In a double boiler, heat 2 Tablespoons of the heavy cream to boiling.  Add the chopped chocolate and stir until melted and smooth.

Whip the remaining cream until stiff.

Pour the melted chocolate over the softened gelatin, mixing well.  Let the gelatin and chocolate cool slightly and then stir in 1/2 cup of cream to temper.  Add the Pate a Bombe.

Add in the rest of the cream, mixing gently with a spatula.

Best made the day of assembly.

dark chocolate ganache

Because the ganache hardens as it cools, you should make it right before you intend to use it to facilitate assembly.  Please be careful when caramelizing the sugar and then adding the cream.  It WILL splatter and bubble.

4 Tablespoons granular sugar

2/3 cup – 1 Tablespoon heavy cream (4.5 oz)

5 oz. dark chocolate chopped

3 Tablespoons + 1/2 teaspoon softened butter

Make a caramel:  Using the dry method, melt the sugar by spreading it in an even layer in a small saucepan with high sides.  Heat over medium-high heat, watching it carefully as the sugar begins to melt.  Never stir the mixture.  As the sugar starts to melt, you can swirl the pan occasionally to allow the sugar to melt evenly.  I had better luck if I didn’t stir it.  Cook to dark amber color.  While the sugar is melting, heat the cream until boiling.  Pour cream into the caramel and stir thoroughly careful.  Pour the hot caramel-milk mixture over the dark chocolate.  wait 30 seconds and stir until smooth.  Add the softened butter and whip hard and fast (or use an immersion blender).  The chocolate should be smooth and shiny.

dark chocolate icing

Because the icing gels quickly, you should make it at the last minute.

1 Tablespoon powdered gelatin (the original recipe said 1/2, but this would not gel for me)

1/4 cup heavy cream

5 Tablespoons granular sugar

1/4 cup water

1/3 cup unsweetened cocoa powder

Soften the gelatin in cold water for 15 minutes.  Boil heavy cream, granular sugar, water, and cocoa together and cook an additional 3 minutes after reaching the boiling point.  Add gelatin and mix well.

Let cool while checking the texture regularly.  As soon as the mixture is smooth and coats a spoon well (it is starting to gel), use immediately.

assembling the yule log

Line your mold with parchment.  I cut mine into a cross shape so the corner wouldn’t be bunched up (because there’s nothing worse than a bunched up corner on your entremets, right??)  You could pipe the mousse, but I simply scooped 1/3 of the mousse into the bottom of the pan and and evened it out with an offset spatula.  Take the creme brulee insert out of the freezer at the last minute and set on top of the mousse.  Press down gently to slightly ensconce it in the mousse.  Scoop another 1/3 of the mousse around and on top of the creme brulee insert.  Cut the praline crisp insert to a size slightly smaller than the mold so it can be surrounded by mousse.  Lay it on top of the mousse.  Put the last third of the mousse on top of the praline.  Freeze for a few hours to set.  Remove from freezer.  Spread the ganache insert onto the frozen mousse leaving a slight edges so that the ganache doesn’t seep out when you set the dacquoise on top.  Close with the dacquoise. 

the next day

Unmold the dessert and set it on a wire rack over a shallow pan.

As you can see, I should have squished my dacquoise a bit more to get the ganache all the way to the edges.

Cover cake with icing.  I didn’t have a lot of extra icing, so I set up a system with two different racks and cookie sheets.  Alternating one for the log to rest on and using to other to pour the runoff icing on the edge of the cake.

The icing gels quickly when it hits the cold mousse.  Once the icing is set, return the cake to the freezer.  This is best eaten the day it is assembled.  Transfer to the refrigerator 1/2 hour before serving.  I warmed my knife under hot running water and then wiped it dry before cutting.

It has been unreasonably cold around here lately, and my old house is having a hard time with it.  In an effort to combat the chill I have been drinking more coffee and cocoa than usual.  This is recipe has evolved over the years into something of a tradition around here.  When the first chill of Fall hits the air I make a batch and do my best to keep the giant Ball jar filled until Spring.

cocoa mix

2 cups powdered sugar

1 cup Dutch cocoa

2 1/2 cup powdered milk (any will do, but I found some at my co-op that is super fine so it dissolves much better and makes a smoother drink than supermarket powdered milk)

1 teaspoon salt

1 cup powdered creamer (flavor of choice)

1 teaspoon vanilla powder

4 ounces chopped chocolate

mix all of these together until fully incorporated

Store in the container of your choice. 

Put a kettle of water on and bring to a near boil.  To mix place 2-4 heaping spoonfuls in an empty cup.  The amount depends on how strong you prefer your cocoa so you’ll have to do some playing around to find your number.  Bummer huh??  Pour a bit of hot water in and stir to dissolve cocoa, when mixed you can add more water.  Top with marshmallows or freshly whipped cream. 

Another great thing to do is put a scoop or two into a freshly brewed cup of coffee for a great mocha.

I have seen a lot of great recipes for spiced pecans over the years, but this week I wanted something sweeter.  I found a couple of different versions of candied nuts, but none were really what I was looking for.  I ended up taking a bit from the different versions and added my own twist to get these.

candied espresso pecans

1 egg white

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 Tablespoon coffee extract

2/3 cup sugar

1 teaspoon espresso powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

4 cups pecan halves

Preheat oven to 325 degrees.  Spread the pecans on a parchment lined baking sheet and toast for 10 minutes; stirring half way through.  Remove to let cool.

In a large bowl, whip the egg white to a froth and add the vanilla and coffee extracts.

In a separate bowl mix together the sugar, espresso powder, and salt.

Add the toasted pecans to the egg white mixture and stir to coat.  Sprinkle with sugar mixture and stir well.

Spread onto parchment lined sheet.  Bake 10 – 15 minutes.  Stirring half way through.

A couple of years ago my mom purchased the book You can do it, Sam, by Amy Hest and illustrated by Anita Jeram for CJ.  It quickly became a family favorite.  Sam, a little bear, and his mother wake up early to bake cakes and package them up in little red bags to their friends.  When they pull up to the first house his mother sends him off in the snow with his red bag despite his nerves,he places the bag at the door and runs back to the truck.  They go along until they have one bag left which is, of course, for Sam.  They go inside and have cocoa and tell stories about their adventure. 

It’s a great story on it’s own, but when I used to read it to CJ, and now when he reads it to me, it’s even better.  He likes to act out bits and pieces of the story as we go along.  So when it came time to make teacher gifts for his preschool class we decided on our little red bags.  Four years later the little red bags filled with handmade goodies have become a tradition to share with friends every Christmas.  Each year we put in something a little different.  This year we have Vanilla Granola, Candied Espresso Pecans, Gingerbread Truffles, and Malted Milk Rounds.

gingerbread truffles

adapted from recipegirl

the cream

3/4 cup whipping cream

10 whole allspice

10 whole cloves

1 Tablespoon sorghum

1 1/2 teaspoon grated fresh ginger

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

pinch of salt

Bring these just to a boil in a medium saucepan; remove from heat and let steep for 1 hour.

the melted chocolate

7 ounces bittersweet chocolate chopped

7 ounces white chocolate chopped

Combine both chocolates in a large heatproof bowl set over a saucepan of simmering water; stir until just melted.  Strain cream mixture into chocolate; stir to blend.  Chill until firm.  About 3 hours.

Line baking sheet with parchment.  Using a melon baller, scoop filling and roll between palms to form balls.  Place on parchment and chill at least 2 hours.

the coating

11 ounces bittersweet chocolate chopped

1 1/2 ounce paraffin wax

Melt chocolate and wax in heatproof bowl over pan of simmering water.  Stir until smooth.  Submerge chilled truffles in melted chocolate.  Using a fork, lift out and tap fork on side of bowl to remove excess chocolate.  Use a knife to slide truffle off fork onto a parchment lined baking sheet.  Chill until set.

Can be made one week ahead.  Cover and keep chilled.

A friend of mine asked me to make some Christmas stockings for her children.  I finished them last week and here they are.

They were so much fun to make.  They are made of wool felt and entirely hand stitched.  I love the snowmen, but it sounds like two of the girls battled over who could have the wreath.  The wreath is Lulu’s favorite too.

Actually these are called buckeyes, but CJ thinks they look more like peanut butter eyes.

They have a sweet, creamy peanut butter center swirled in dark chocolate.  Every year I make these I put them in a bag in a freezer and think I will be able to resist them.  Every year I sneak handfulls every time I pass the freezer.  They are one of my weaknesses.

buckeyes

adapted from Penzey’s

for the filling
6 cups (1 1/2 lb.) powdered sugar
2 sticks (1/2 lb.) room temperature butter
2 cups (1 lb.) creamy peanut butter
1 Tablespoon vanilla

Combine sugar, butter, peanut butter, and vanilla. Mix well. I use my stand mixer to get it nice and smooth. Roll into balls about the size of a walnut. Chill in fridge for 1 hour.

for the coating
18 oz. of chocolate chips (any flavor you like)
1/2 slab of parafin wax chopped into small bits

Melt the chocolate and wax in a double boiler, or in a heat proof bowl over a pan of barely simmering water. Use a toothpick to dip the ball in the chocolate leaving just the top exposed. Cool on a cookie sheet in freezer for 20 minutes. Remove from freezer and rub out the toothpick hole. Put the buckeyes in a large freezer bag and store in freezer. I read somewhere that you were supposed to bring them to room temperature before serving. That’s pure insanity, these things are so good straight from the freezer.

A note about the wax – I know it seems like a strange thing to put in candy, but if you look an most candies in the store they have some kind of wax in them. It makes a dramatic difference in the chocolate. They have a nice gloss and hold their shape better with the wax. It is usually found in the canning section of the grocery store.

I spent twelve years working retail, during that time I started to dread Thanksgiving more with every passing year.  Thankfully, I have been out of “the biz” for a few years now and every year I look forward to the holidays a bit more.  This year it seems I have completely blocked all the pushing and shoving and those extra special customers who seem to have lost any sense of how to treat others.  In fact I even went shopping the day after Thanksgiving.  Granted it was just one store, but hey, I got myself back out there again.

This year, I was excited to be hosting my family for the first time.  Also a bit nervous because we generally don’t like the taste of store bought turkey.  We usually have wild turkey, but that wasn’t going to be an option this year.  I went to the co-op and picked up a free range bird and hoped for the best.

The day before I did a salt rub with kosher salt and a mix of herbs and pepper that I bashed together.  Then I put it back in the fridge in a big roasting bag.  The next morning I took it out of the bag and rinsed off the salt.  I made an herb mustard butter with scallions, sage, and thyme.  That went under the skin and all over the outside of the bird.

Then I surrounded the bird with our family’s favorite dressing.  It’s made with a loaf of wheat bread, torn into bits, a chopped onion, a couple of ribs of chopped celery, pepper, poultry seasoning, some rubbed sage, and a couple cups of chicken stock.

The texture of the turkey was great.  I think most of those store bought turkeys out there are a bit mushy and kind of wet.  I’m sure that is the fault of the brine that the processors inject into it to make it moist, but I find that texture unpleasant.  I don’t want to eat wet turkey.  This turkey had a texture more like a wild bird.  I hesitate to say it was stringy, at the risk of putting someone off the idea of going with a free range bird, but the meat held together differently, more like an actual turkey.  There was no mush, it had a nice bite to it, and the flavor was great.  It was enhanced by the herb butter rather than the herb butter being the stand out flavor.

The dressing was great too.  The meal was rounded out with cranberry sauce, “pinky” salad, spinach salad, mashed potatoes, gravy, rolls, sweet potato and parsnip gratin, and finished with ground cherry pie, pumpkin pecan pie, and homemade ice cream.

Oh, and potato chips because Lulu thought a proper Thanksgiving feast should include potato chips.

Who was I to argue?

November slipped away from me.  I have been busy with lots of little things, and it seems I continue to forget to stop and take pictures.

Here is a shawl I finished for myself.  The edges are a pattern called ostrich feather lace and the middle stitch is called ravelling leaves.  I found the stitches in Vogue Knitting Stitchionary, volume one knit & purl.  It’s knitted in my favorite malabrigo kettle dyed pure Merino worsted wool.  The color is pearl ten. 

With this shawl, I was able to do some blocking.  I sprayed the shawl with water and stretched it out and pinned it onto my bedroom floor.  I was amazed with all the extra length I found when I stretched it.  It took less than a day to dry.  It’s beyond cozy.